The March of White Wine Grapes from Le Marche Italy
Quercia Scarlatta farm and estate is in Le Marche.
Le Marche Italy is a picturesque region along the coast in central Italy, has a rich winemaking heritage that dates back centuries. Nestled between the Adriatic Sea and the Apennine Mountains to the east of Tuscany, this land of rolling hills, different terrains and soils, and nearby seaside, provides great conditions for vineyards and farmers.
With a myriad of indigenous grape varieties that make up Italian wine, Le Marche’s contribution is mainly on the white wine front, offering a delightful array of white wine grapes. In this article we’ll explore some of these white wine grapes from Le Marche that make delicious white wine dry, getting insight from local winemaker, Stefano Pintossi, of Quercia Scarlatta, a sustainable and natural family farm nestled in the area of Macerata in Le Marche. Stefano is the “other half” of this family wine estate, whose story we told after speaking with Stefano’s wife, Claudia last year.
Discovering Le Marche
The name of the region ‘Le Marche’, sometimes translated, somewhat awkardly, to ‘The Marches,’ is the only region in Italy that is a plural word. The name derives from the Germanic word ‘marka,’ referring to a of property identifier; the region was an ‘assemblage’ of different historic city-states, like Ancona and Ascoli, which got grouped together and become known over time as Le Marche.
Wine in Le Marche is an ancient tradition. In fact, during an archaeological dig at Villa Clara in Matelica (known for a wine verdicchio based) an incredible treasure was found: a tomb containing grape seeds dating all the way back to the 8th century.
Le Marche has a predominantly hilly landscape that is characterized by a mixture of marl and limestone soils. Its diversity of landscape and grape varieties has resulted in a significant number of wine appellations in Le Marche: 15 DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) and 5 DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) wines, of which 7 of these denominations are exclusively for white wines.
Of all the white wine grapes grown in Le Marche, verdicchio accounts for approximately 15% of the region's wine production. Known for its versatility and structure, experts, such as Ian D'Agata, suggest a genetic relation to the noble turbiana white grape, which is used to make Lugana wines near Lake Garda in Northern Italy. This is a grape that gets around. And no wonder because verdicchio wines offer delightful aromas of sweet peaches and flowers with a refreshing acidity and sapidity.
Another person fascinated with verdicchio was botanist Bruno Bruni who in 1936 tried 54 times to cross verdicchio with sauvignon blanc. On the 54th time he felt it was ‘just right’ and got a white wine grape named after himself, incrocio bruni 54, a grape variety that embodies the spirit of experimentation of the Le Marche region. It is known as a “powerful blending grape”, producing wines with the aromas of Sauvignon Blanc and texture of Verdicchio, as demonstrated in the delicious Marchese Japo white wine blend by Quercia Scarlatta.
Le Marche offers stunning panoramas of their mountains and rolling hills.
Le Marche, however, is not a one-trick-pony. They offer more than just verdicchio to the list of ‘white wines of Italy’. It is home to white grape varieties like the trebbiano toscano, accounting for 20% of the region's wine production (not to be confused for the trebbiano abruzzese grown in nearby Abruzzo). Maceratino, also known as Ribona, stands out as one of the region's finest grape varieties. The name derives from the province were it comes from Macerata, where Quercia Scarlatta farm and winery is. With its medium-late maturation, wildflower scents, and balanced acidity, it lends itself beautifully to ageworthy white wines. Pecorino and passerina white wine grapes contribute to the region's viticultural diversity, making go-to white wines that many Italians know and enjoy. These 2 grapes are also commonly found in the neighboring region of Abruzzo, with Vero Producer Febo making an alternative Pecorino white wine in an orange wine style.
Interview with a winemaker
Now we have a bit of background on the area and overall wine culture of Le Marche, it is time to hear directly from Stefano of Quercia Scarlatta and learn about the white wines of Le Marche straight from a grower-artisan.
Which white wine grapes do you grow? Which one do you have the most of?
We grow maceratino (aka ribona) which is 60% of our white wine grape production, followed by 30% of incrocio bruni 54. Then we produce a small amount of trebbiano toscano and chardonnay.
So you grow trebbiano toscano, not trebbiano abruzzese. What are your thoughts on wines made with trebbiano toscano?
Trebbiano has structure and creates wines that can age well over time, although few people choose to let it mature for the right amount of time in the bottle. As such, it is often not made as a high quality mono varietal wine. We use trebbiano toscano as a blending grape, cultivating only very small quantities.
Which is your favorite white wine grape?
My favorite white grape is definitely incrocio bruni 54, a cross of 54% verdicchio and 46% sauvignon blanc.
Winemaker and farmer Stefano Pintossi of Quercia Scarlatta in his Le Marche vineyards.
In your wines, some you say are made with ‘maceratino’ and others are made with ‘ribona’. What is the difference?
The difference is only in the name. Once the grape was known also as ‘maceratino’, so older vintage wines are known by that name. Then the official name was changed to ‘ribona, ’therefore it is the ribona name included in recent DOC denominations.
What are your thoughts on verdicchio? Why do you choose to not make any white wines with it?
Verdicchio is part of the wine history of Le Marche region and is an excellent vine. We are not located within a Verdicchio DOC area, so we do not concentrate on the grape. Consider thought that the incrocio bruni 54 grape which we grow is a cross of verdicchio and sauvignon blanc. Therefore, it "contains" the essence of verdicchio.
You said your favorite grape is incrocio bruni, so what is it like to work with it? Why do you love it?
The incrocio bruni adds structure to ribona (aka maceratino). I like to cultivate it because it is considered indigenous, as the person who "invented," Bruno Bruni, worked at the University of Ancona (in Le Marche). We have studied it extensively, and soon we will release our first sparkling wine using 100% incrocio bruni using the classic champagne method. In fact, Bruno Bruni pursued the cross of verdicchio and sauvignon blanc to create incrocio bruni 54 because he was fond of sparkling wines made solely from verdicchio. He was committed to enhancing the viticulture diversity and depthness of Le Marche with incrocio bruni 54. Likewise, we are committed to show it with the line up of our wines.
In your opinion, why is Le Marche favorable to white wines?
Le Marche, in general, has a type of mixed clay soil, which allows for the creation of excellent white wines, supported by a constant breeze that is beneficial for lush vineyards, especially those growing white grapes. An area like ours, in the hills near the sea and with low altitudes, is predisposed to white grape vineyards. However, we also have excellent red wines even near the sea, and not only in Le Marche region.
As we learned from our interview with your wife, Claudia, you two are not originally from Le Marche, so how did you end up in the Macerata area?
Stefano, with their vineyard draft horse.
I had lived in Le Marche for a while and had attended the University of Macerata, where I graduated. This is a territory where, in terms of land configuration, it is easier to engage in organic cultivation. Typically, the whole hillside belongs to you, so what you put into the land is what you will find in your crops without worrying about dividing up the space.
Another important aspect is that the initial investment we had to make was possible because we planned on moving to Le Marche. In other places, we would not have been able to afford it economically; here, prices for land and houses are still affordable.
What do you love about the life of a farmer in Le Marche?
The answer has many angles. On one hand, cultivating the land means going back to humanity’s origins and gives you the idea that you can create and transform your land, your work, and your products as you wish, giving you a great sense of fulfillment. On the other hand, I am 50 years old and I also love the peace and tranquility that can be found in this area.
Being a farmer is not easy, and it doesn't make you rich. But what you do have is time that is marked differently and the satisfaction of following the rhythms of nature, not just those of business.
Why do you think it is important to focus on sustainable farming and natural and organic agriculture?
Organic farming or working in the most sustainable way possible is a 360 degree consideration. It benefits the product (in terms of health), the land, the workers, and future generations. Everyone benefits from it!
The only thing that organic farming doesn't provide is a guaranteed production in terms of volume of wine per year compared to those who use a lot of chemicals, both in the field and in the cellar.
There is one important point: organic farming should not be seen as a definitive and perfect solution to a climate crisis, but rather seen as a step in the right direction where less harm is done. At the same time, it should be seen as an area that still has much room for improvement to become the best version of itself!
Taste a Great WhiteWine from Le Marche
If you want to try a white wine from Le Marche, a spectacular example is Stefano’s Marchese Japo natural wine. A blend of maceratino (ribona), incrocio bruni 54, and a bit of trebbiano, this natural white wine from Italy is aged for six months on the lees after undergoing native yeast fermentation.
A white wine dry on the palate, it has enticing aromas of tropical fruits like banana and even some melon, but also an interesting note of pastry cream and bread followed by a light mineral note. A full and complex wine both on the nose and on the palate, the yeasty, buttery components continue on the palate that balance with the fruit, freshness, and sapidity.
